Westray (from the Old Norse Vestr-ey, or West-Isle), one of Orkney’s “Northern Isles”, is well named locally as the “Queen o’ the Isles” and has a population of around 600. It has been described as one huge farm and livestock farming is very important on the island as are fishing and fish farming.
Tourism is also important to the economy of the island and there is certainly a lot to see and do. One of the highlights is the archaeology at The Links of Noltland overlooking the beach at Grobust, sometimes referred to as Westray's Skara Brae.
When we first visited Westray in the late 1990s this area of dunes was virtually flat with rabbits everywhere and low stone walls which had been used in times past to dry seaweed before it was burnt in pits to extract the alkaline minerals which were exported for the glass industry among others. About halfway along the dunes overlooking the beach there was a back-filled area where a Neolithic house had been excavated some years before. When we returned several years later we couldn’t believe the difference. The area above the western end of the beach was now bare of grass,and resembled a windswept desert littered with stones and just an occasional grass-topped high mound from the original dunes. The storms had caused a massive blow out of the dunes exposing signs of a Neolithic and later Bronze Age settlement which was being excavated by EASE Archaeology. Over the years since then we got to know the archaeologists, particularly Hazel and Graeme, and have been lucky to have been present when exciting discoveries were made including Neolithic structures and pottery, a Bronze Age well and a Bronze Age sauna and 2 perfectly preserved Bronze Age pottery bowls. Historic Scotland have been working to stabilise the area by planting marram grass and the adjacent golf club installed a high bund at the top of the beach at the eastern end to protect the golf course when they extended it. There are now plans to consolidate the archaeological site and build a visitor centre.
Just behind the links stands Noltland Castle, built in the sixteenth century by Gilbert Balfour. It is an impressive structure built to a Z plan with an oblong central block with two diagonally opposed square corner towers and boasts 71 gun-holes! Despite this it was seized by Lord Robert Stewart in 1572. Other historic sites worth visiting include Pierowall Church, Tuquoy Church and the Knowe of Skea
The cliffs at Noup Head are packed with seabirds during late Spring and early Summer and the Castle of Burrian is home to puffins during the breeding season. The Ouse is a good place to see waders, and seals are common around the island.
There are excellent coastal walks and if you are lucky you will find the tiny Primula Scotica (the Scottish Primrose) growing on the western slopes of Fitty Hill during mid-May to mid-June and again from mid-July to mid-August.
Other attractions include the Westray Heritage Centre and The Wheeling Steen Gallery and from the airport you can take the shortest scheduled commercial flight in the world across to Papay.
And if all that’s not enough Jack’s Chippy at Pierowall Fish serves some of the best Fish and Chips in the world!
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